Valdez
Alaska - USA 
Airstreaming  2006

Arrive:  August 10
Depart:  August 13
Road Conditions:  Good/fair
Weather: Cloudy/rainy
Miles:  263

Click for Route Map

The scenic ride to Valdez was really impressive. First the Glenn Highway with it's switchbacks and mountain climbs offering views and excitement. Then the Richardson Highway passed the Worthington glacier at mile 28, northeast of Valdez and on through Thompson Pass, the snowiest place in Alaska, just around the corner to the south. In the exceptional winter of 1952-53, the pass got 974 inches -- 81 feet -- of snow from storms blowing off Prince William Sound. Both these roads were in good condition with only a short section when entering Valdez under repair offering bumps and mud.

Most people link  the town to the 1980 Exxon Valdez oil spill or the 1964 earthquake, both occurring on a not so "Good" Friday. The history of Valdez  is of course even more interesting than just these two events. The town feels and looks like a working town but the glacier and wildlife tours available make it a great tourist destination - just don't expect a lot of sunshine.

Rain yes - but we still wanted a boat ride - and we picked the best. The LU-Lu Belle, with captain Fred Rodolf. He built the boat, maintains the boat, lives on the boat, and captains the boat in what is a true family endeavor. Fred advertises a 51/2 to 7 hour cruise - ours was 9 hours - and apparently most are longer than advertised. He chases whales or winds his way up to the Columbia Glacier where others fear to tread. Fred admitted advertising a longer tour did not get more people aboard but once he pulls away from the dock  like it or not your along for the ride and you will not be disappointed. The ride was smooth and comfortable, chowder, hot coffee, and fresh brownies were available from the friendly crew and an interesting running commentary was provided by Fred. We did not spot whales, it was just too foggy, but the zigzag ride up to the face of the Columbia Glacier, just missing and sometimes scraping huge pieces of ice was very special. There were no other boats near the glacier, most stayed miles away and viewing Columbia and witnessing caving could only be done up close. We did see some moderate caving, enough to rock the boat.

OK - no whales, no Orcas but plenty of otters (my favorite), sea lions ( Kath said they look like huge slugs and they can be pesky in harbors), puffins (up close with Captain Fred) and salmon - thousands of salmon. Valdez on a sunny day must be fabulous.